'Before Alamein we never had a victory. After Alamein we never had a defeat'

Thus Churchill summed up the battle which marked the culmination of the Western Desert campaign. After the fall of Tobruk in June 1942 Auchinleck took personal control of the 8th Army. Rommel, pushing his men to the limits of endurance and disregarding supply lines, drove deep into the British rear who in July fell back to El Alamein. Uncoordinated British attacks of '1st Alamein' included the chaotic Operation Splendour from which just six out of 106 tanks of 23rd Armoured Brigade returned.

In mid-August 'the Auk' was replaced by Alexander as GOC Middle East and Montgomery was appointed to command 8th Army. Monty's dynamism restored damaged morale and ended the amateurish war of 'boxes', 'Jock Columns' and 'swanning about the blue' but he used his predecessor's plan to defeat Rommel at Alam Halfa ridge on 31 August. Alexander kept an impatient Churchill at bay while supplies were accumulated and a detailed plan devised to break through powerful German positions in which deception played a major part. In the vanguard of the first phase, Operation Lightfoot beginning on 23 October, the Sappers cleared corridors through the mine fields. The armour, however, could not break-out and, as Montgomery attempted to 'crumble' the German defences, his attack stalled. Regrouping, he chose General Freyberg VC to lead the successful break-out punch of Operation Supercharge on 2 November. The overwhelming airpower of the Desert Air Force pounded the Panzer Armee which escaped only by taking their Italian ally's transport. In Britain the church bells were rung for the first time since May 1940.

We travel many miles into the desert in 4x4 vehicles with Bedouin guides (be warned: this can be bumpy!). This is the fourth tour of the Western Desert battlefields for our guide Simon Jones and will prove an unforgettable experience.

ITINERARY
Day 1 (Sunday): Fly London Heathrow to Cairo.
Day 2: Drive from Cairo to our hotel with lunch in Alexandria. Four nights at the Porto Marina Hotel [tbc] at El Alamein. Evening talk: Battles of July and August 1942.
Day 3: Starting at the famous Railway Station, we take the Qattara track for the halting of the Germans 1 July 1942. Then to Ruweisat Ridge and El Mreir for '1st Alamein'. Picnic lunch. Alam Halfa ridge for British defensive victory and overview of 13 Corps attack during Operation Lightfoot. Evening talk: Operation Lightfoot.
Day 4: British cemetery and Museum at El Alamein. Australians at Tel El Eisa. German and Italian memorials. Picnic lunch. Miteirya Ridge: Operations Splendour, Manhood and Lightfoot (2nd Battle of El Alamein). Evening Talk: Operation Supercharge.
Day 5: The later fighting of the 2nd Battle of El Alamein: the Kidney, Woodcock and Snipe positions. Operation Supercharge 1-2 November and the final battle at Tell el Aqqaqir, memorial to German ace Hans Joachim Marseilles.
Day 6: Drive to Cairo with lunch in Alexandria. Overnight Cairo.
Day 7: Return flight to London.